Got some questions about Vermeer twin rakes. With the drought this year been putting up a lot of grass hay in road ditches, small patches, and areas that haven't been cut in years. Doing a lot of it with sickle mower as it's small patches for the most part and you don't know what's out that for hidden treasures that can reck a haybine in a hurry. Very time consuming.
But I've been thinking about a twin rake for a couple of reasons. One is for instances above, two is for merging windrows in thin hay, and 3 is for corn stalks.
The old 9 wheel rake is a pain in these small patches as it's tough to turn around in small corners and despite the fact a person tries to set it right it still grabs to much dirt that leads to dust in the windrows.
So my questions are:
How do these rakes work and hold up in road ditches and areas that are rough with a lot of gopher mounds?
How about in corn stalks, do they work good in them and hold up?
What about manuevability in tight areas.
Can you use the twin rake to turn over a single windrow? Local dealer says no yet there is a guy on YouTube that has one side locked out and doing just that?
I'd like a 2800 as the additional capacity and width would be nice along with the fact it just looks a lot beefierbut no way in hell am I paying that for a rake but I have found a nice 23A. Tell me about that model and things to look for.
tmrand
Posted 7/10/2017 23:16 (#6118107 - in reply to #6118079) Subject: RE: Vermeer twin rakes
Southeast Colorado
My Dad bought a brand new R23 15 years ago and it was a piece of crap. I see they still hold their value so maybe it was just the wrong fit for us. We mostly raked cane feed or corn stalks. We could not keep tines on it to save our lives. In grass or alfalfa it worked like a dream. In corn stalks you'd break off 3 or 4 teeth every half mile traveling 4 to 5 mph. Maybe it was a lemon..........but just how complicated can a rake be?? I've got an Allen twin basket now and it is WAY better.
Haybale
Posted 7/11/2017 07:05 (#6118306 - in reply to #6118079) Subject: RE: Vermeer twin rakes
WC Iowa
Small patches and a r-23 do not belong in the same book. Manual fold which can be a pain if not on level ground. No way to easily adjust width. No way to lift on ends to raise over hay so end rows become a disaster. They are made for big fields and I don't know if I'd even want one for that. I have used a r23a for more than I should of and never missed that thing. They also take a decent hydraulic system to keep oil cool.
We now have a WRX 12. Other than it's long and takes a wide area to turn it is 100x more user friendly. Raises high enough to clear previously raked windrows, independent wheels float along ground with infinite easy to adjust down pressure and simple hydraulic folding without a stupid control box like the 23-2800s. Run it with whatever tractor I have free from 4010 to an 8100 once.
bacon
Posted 7/11/2017 07:53 (#6118402 - in reply to #6118079) Subject: RE: Vermeer twin rakes
SC North Dakota
I have a 2800. I love that rake but would never run it in ditches, rocks, or uneven ground. You will wreck it in a hurry. It's used for alfalfa, oats hay, sorghum and anything in a field that I run the discbine over. Kick two swaths together. The best would be to find a good used double wheel rake. That's what we use on the rougher ground.
Gearclash
Posted 7/11/2017 08:03 (#6118433 - in reply to #6118079) Subject: RE: Vermeer twin rakes
Sioux County, NWIA
I have run a Vermeer R23 and now an R2300 for many years. They have their place.
How do these rakes work and hold up in road ditches and areas that are rough with a lot of gopher mounds? They don't like rough ground very well. The only flex is in the tines, and they can bend or will eventually break.
How about in corn stalks, do they work good in them and hold up? They work in stalks, but you need to shred first. They also will pull in more dirt than a wheel rake in my experience.
What about manuevability in tight areas. A lot shorter than a comparable width wheel rake, so more maneuverable.
Can you use the twin rake to turn over a single windrow? Local dealer says no yet there is a guy on YouTube that has one side locked out and doing just that? Yes. Run the rake with both wings out, at a narrow width. If the existing windrows are too close together, pull two on one. If they are far enough apart, use one side of the rake at a time, and roll all the windrows over the same direction.
Not much to look for that is hidden on a 23A. They have the better bar bearings than the 23, and the bigger caster wheels. Check the bearings that the caster wheel swivels on. They were not greasable on the 23, and vulnerable to water intrusion. The 2300 has hydraulic fold and that is a lifesaver for operation on many smaller pieces.
Gearclash
Posted 7/11/2017 08:07 (#6118437 - in reply to #6118433) Subject: RE: Vermeer twin rakes
Sioux County, NWIA
Picture. One way of raking single windrows. Too much tonnage to roll two on one.
Posted 7/11/2017 15:37 (#6119240 - in reply to #6118079) Subject: RE: Vermeer twin rakes
I bought an R2800 new in 2007 and since then its covered 1700-2500 acres a year. It's been across the smoothest crop fields, the roughest CRP/hay fields, and pasture with never a problem. However I would be hesitant to use it in ditches. In 10 years I've never lost, broken or bent a tine. Most guys around "here" that have trouble have the ridiculous idea that the tines must come in contact with the ground to collect all the hay. In my experience the tines only need to come in contact with the top of the stubble to do and excellent job. Single windrows and light hay have never been a problem for me but I usually put two 19 ft windrows together.
ak47
Posted 7/11/2017 20:22 (#6119764 - in reply to #6118079) Subject: RE: Vermeer twin rakes
The desert of south central neb
I have a R24A I'm toying around with selling it works really well but I have a lot of rough prairie hay I try and rake and it doesn't get it all. Looking for a Vermeer 1428
32 wcf
Posted 7/11/2017 22:02 (#6120094 - in reply to #6118079) Subject: RE: Vermeer twin rakes
Montana
The 2800 is a really nice rake. Too nice for ditches and rough spots. Use ours for alfalfa works great, but some say they rope the hay if it's too wet. Spent my childhood unpacking and folding one of the first r21's, don't miss them days. I'd look for a r24 if your on a budget. They were hydraulic fold if I remember right. Look at the teeth and make sure they still have some decent length after the angle yet and aren't almost straight.
Have someone measure front wheel well down to a 2x4 flat beside tire.Raise front of truck until the level reads level.Measure front wheel well again and the difference is your rake.
Center kicker wheel conversion kit for carted wheel rakes
The center kicker wheel conversion kit improves drying time and windrow pickup for the baler by raking the hay in the center of the rake that is not turned by the rake wheels.
It is important to set the rotor low enough to ensure all the crop is gathered but not so low the tines contact the ground. Ground contact will result in machine wear, potential damage and the incorporation of excessive ash content in the windrow. Windrow width – Windrow width on a rotary rake is adjustable as well.
Wheel diameter and width might be expressed as a mathematical term, such as 16×7, which means the diameter is 16 inches and the width is 7 inches. Wheel offset measurements may be expressed following the letters “ET,” as in ET0, which would mean an offset equal to zero.
Use a tape measure to measure horizontally across the front of the rim. Use a tape measure to measure the side of the rim from one bead seat area to the other. There could be 4, 5, 6, or 8 bolt holes. Most passenger vehicles use a 5-bolt pattern but double-check to make sure.
SET DEPTH: With engine off, set the raking depth so that the spring tines are just above touching the flat surface (i.e. driveway, or sidewalk) the units height is being adjusted on. NOTE: Allowing the spring tines to have substantial contact with the ground will cause premature wear and failure of the spring tines.
The hay at the center of the swath typically remains unraked. Fluff it with the center kicker wheel(s), which moves and turns hay for faster, more even crop drying and easier pickup by the baler.
The current method for torque (T) estimation is to use an empirical equation: T = KGd2 where KG is an empirically determined value and d is the thickener diameter.
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